Then and now

Our trusted and beloved shoe has changed quite a bit over the years. The differences in quality and materials are clearly noticeable. That's why I've made a list of the differences between then and now.

Quality and Materials - Then

Production:
- Until the mid-1990s, all Dr. Martens were produced in England. The focus was on craftsmanship and durability.
- Use of thick, full-grain leather that was sturdy and patinated beautifully over time.
- The classic “Bouncing Sole” was heat sealed and sewn, giving exceptional strength.

Learn:
- Traditional leather such as Smooth Leather and Quilon Leather (thick and durable, somewhat rougher than current leather).
- Leather required a long break-in period but became more flexible with time.

Production method:
- Handmade production with high quality control.

Goal:
- Functional and practical footwear, designed for workers such as postmen and factory workers.

Quality and Materials - Now

Production:
- Most Dr. Martens have been produced in Asian countries such as Thailand, Vietnam and China since the late 1990s, which has led to changes in production methods and quality control.
- A limited line called “Made in England” remains produced in England and retains traditional methods and materials.

Learn:
- The leather has generally become thinner and more supple, which results in a shorter breaking-in period but less durability.
- Extensive use of "Corrected Grain Leather," where the natural texture is removed and reapplied, which is cheaper but less natural and less durable.
- Introduction of synthetic and vegan materials such as vegan leather.

Sole:
- The soles have become slightly lighter and seem less durable than the classic soles.
- Some users report that the adhesive bonds of modern soles loosen more quickly.

Production method:
- Machine production largely replaces manual labor, which increases consistency but may affect longevity.

Goal:
- Aimed at fashion and a broad audience, which sometimes comes at the expense of the focus on functionality.


The original Dr. Martens were known for their durability and high quality, while modern models are more focused on comfort and fashion. This sometimes comes at the expense of durability through mass production. The "Made in England" line upholds that classic quality, but comes with a higher price tag.

Personally, I prefer the original, English-made models. They fit better, and there is a beautiful variety of prints and soles available. Are you looking for the perfect vintage pair? Then take a quick look at my personally selected collection in the webshop!